Kolkata neighbourhoods
North Kolkata
The old Bengali town that grew out of Sutanuti: lanes too narrow for a car, rajbaris with thakurdalans, sweet shops older than the railways and ghats where the day still starts with a dip in the Hooghly. This is the Kolkata of the Bengal Renaissance, of theatre, of adda on the rowak.
- Shyambazar: The five-point crossing
- Bagbazar: Ghats, Ramakrishna and the first public Puja of the north
- Sovabazar: Rajbaris and Sutanuti
- Kumartuli: The potters’ quarter
- Hatibagan: Theatre para and a pavement market
- Maniktala: A market with a clock tower
- Belgachia: A quiet Jain garden temple
- Jorasanko & Chitpur: The Tagores’ neighbourhood
- College Street: Boi Para: the book neighbourhood
Central Kolkata
Dalhousie Square, Esplanade and Park Street were the showpiece of the British capital, and the lanes behind them became home to Armenians, Jews, Chinese, Parsis, Anglo-Indians and Marwaris. Churches, synagogues, a grand mosque and a Chinese breakfast market sit within a short walk of each other.
- Bowbazar & Old Chinatown: Goldsmiths, Buddhists and a Chinese breakfast
- Burrabazar: The great wholesale market
- Sealdah: The station and its markets
- Entally: Mother Teresa’s neighbourhood
- BBD Bagh (Dalhousie): The capital of British India
- Esplanade & New Market: Where every road in the city meets
- Park Street: Tea rooms, tombs and Christmas lights
- Maidan & Chowringhee: The city’s open ground
South Kolkata
From the temple town of Kalighat to the leafy avenues of Ballygunge and the student streets of Jadavpur, the south is where the twentieth-century Bengali middle class built its city: lakeside walks, cultural halls, sari shops and cabins that have fed three generations.
- Bhawanipur: Netaji’s home ground
- Kalighat: The temple town within the city
- Alipore: Gardens, a library and a jail turned museum
- New Alipore: A planned para of the 1950s
- Kidderpore: The old dock quarter
- Garden Reach & Metiabruz: The last Nawab of Awadh’s little Lucknow
- Ballygunge & Gariahat: Saris, science and Sunday adda
- Dhakuria: By the lake and the handloom court
- Lake Gardens & Southern Avenue: The lake and the avenue
- Tollygunge: Tollywood
- Jadavpur: The student quarter
- Garia: The southern gate, with a bird sanctuary beyond
- Patuli: A township by the Bypass
- Kasba: Puja para of the south-east
Behala & Southwest
Behala and Barisha were the seat of the Sabarna Roy Choudhury family, the zamindars who leased Sutanuti, Gobindapur and Kalikata to the East India Company in 1698. Their temples and family museum survive among busy markets, and the road runs on past Thakurpukur and Joka to the river at Budge Budge.
- Behala: An old town inside the city
- Barisha: Home of the Sabarna Roy Choudhurys
- Thakurpukur & Joka: Where the city thins out
- Budge Budge & Achipur: Down the river
East Kolkata
Tangra’s Hakka Chinese tanneries turned into restaurants, Beliaghata kept the house where Gandhi fasted for peace in 1947, and beyond the Bypass lie the East Kolkata Wetlands, a Ramsar site whose fish ponds quietly clean the city’s waste water.
- Tangra (Chinatown): New Chinatown
- Beliaghata: Where Gandhi kept the peace
Salt Lake
Bidhannagar was reclaimed from salt marshes from the late 1950s and laid out in sectors and blocks. It is the calm, green face of the city: a large central park, a football stadium that has held some of the biggest crowds in the sport, and craft fairs through the winter.
- Salt Lake (Bidhannagar): Sectors, blocks and islands of green
New Town & Rajarhat
Wide roads, glass towers and big public spaces built since the 2000s on what were farms and fisheries. Eco Park, the cultural centres named after Tagore and Nazrul, and the Biswa Bangla Gate give it landmarks of its own.
Dum Dum & Lake Town
Dum Dum grew around an eighteenth-century artillery station and later the airport; today it is a dense residential suburb with one of the oldest surviving buildings in the region, Clive House. Lake Town and Bangur next door are known for their clock tower and for Durga Puja crowds.
- Lake Town & Bangur: A clock tower on VIP Road
- Dum Dum: An old garrison town, now a suburb
Baranagar & Dakshineswar
A Dutch trading post before Calcutta existed, Baranagar later became the cradle of the Ramakrishna movement: the temple at Dakshineswar, the garden house at Cossipore where Sri Ramakrishna spent his last months, and the ruined house where his disciples formed their first monastery.
- Baranagar & Cossipore: A Dutch ghat and the first monastery
- Dakshineswar: Rani Rashmoni’s temple
BT Road to Barrackpore
Follow Barrackpore Trunk Road north and the suburbs turn into a chain of old river towns: Panihati with its Vaishnav festival ground, Khardah with its temples, and Barrackpore with a riverside memorial to Gandhi. The army cantonment at Barrackpore is not open to visitors; the public riverfront is.
- Sodepur: Gandhi’s "second home"
- Panihati: The festival of flattened rice
- Khardah: Temples by the river
- Titagarh: Mill town with a temple like Dakshineswar
- Barrackpore: A riverside memorial town
Hooghly Riverfront & Howrah
Kolkata faces its river from a line of ghats, some with colonial pavilions and some just steps into the water. Ferries cross to Howrah, where the botanic garden, the rail museum and Belur Math line the west bank.
- Strand Road & the Ghats: The city’s river edge
- Howrah & the West Bank: Across the bridge